So you’ve decided you’re adopting a cat. Congrats! Great pick. Now, let’s get your home stocked and ready to receive your new feline friend, so you can focus on building a bond with them… and not running around trying to get everything sorted.
Identification and Accessories
Cat collars are a bit different from dog collars because they are made to break away. They’re designed this way for safety—cats like to climb high and squeeze into tight spaces. A collar that won’t release when caught is too dangerous, as it can get caught and choke a cat.
That said: get a quick-release cat collar in an appropriate size for your cat. If you can’t easily fit fingers under the cat’s collar, it’s too tight. If you can fit your fingers under the band and there’s a gap, it’s too loose. You want it to be difficult to come off over their head but not too tight that it’s hard for them to breathe comfortably.
An identification tag can be beneficial for cats that slip outside. However, as their collars intentionally break away easily, your cat can lose your contact information. To remedy this gap, consider chipping your feline—while somewhat costly, it’ll save you heartbreak.
And help Animal Control contact you if they catch them, as they can scan an impounded cat for owner information. If a kind pedestrian stumbles upon your collarless cat, they can take them to a humane society or vet clinic to check for a microchip. Those entities usually reach out and hold your cat for you, ensuring they aren’t stolen.
Think of it as a fail-safe, since cats are known to travel far and wide on outdoor expeditions. (Which is another reason to keep your cat inside…)
Unless you’re an outdoorsy pet parent! A leash and a harness are necessary for athletic pets and their people. However, keep in mind that hooking a leash to a collar is not advised for cats, who tend to use the leash’s pressure as leverage to escape. A leash can also cause your cat to choke themselves on their collar if they aren’t break-aways.
A cat harness acts as a safer anchor. Make sure you acclimate your cat to both harnesses and leashes, and be very careful when introducing your cat to the outside. There’s loads more sights and smells out there than they’re used to, so they’ll likely be overwhelmed. Consider offering a small, familiar space to hide in, such as a cat carrier, and let them come out when they’re feeling more confident.
Identification and Accessories List:
- Collar & ID tag (microchip)
- Harness/Leash
Cat Food, Treats, and Bowls
Cat Food
When it comes down to food, most recommend high-quality wet food for cats, as it provides extra hydration. Generally, you can determine what’s considered high-quality with a quick Google search, or by looking at the first few ingredients. The rule of thumb pertains to the first three ingredients.
An example of what could be considered “good” first three: chicken, chicken liver, deboned turkey, and other whole-meat alternatives. Examples of “bad” first ingredients: corn, brewer’s rice, peas, and other carbohydrate-high products.
Note: Carbs aren’t necessarily bad, but you want your cat to get enough protein. The first ingredients are the ones that are the most abundant in a product, so it’s generally considered best if those are protein sources.
Though, of course, if your cat is allergic to chicken, then both of these options are less than optimal. Open Farm and Tiki Cat both have good ingredient lists (my cat prefers Open Farm) and offer meat varieties in both wet and dry.
If your local pet store doesn’t offer many options, then an equally high-quality dry food will do—just hydrate with some water or, if vet-approved, bone broth.
Keep the water source away from the food bowl when setting up a food and watering station. Ensure there is ample distance between both bowls and the litter box.
Your cat may think there’s cross-contamination and refuse to eat or drink, for the same reason your cat may prefer your freshly-drawn glass of water, a dripping faucet, or your bath. Cats enjoy fresh, running water and can tell when it’s gone stale. You may invest in a cat fountain or a bubbler system to keep the water fresh, so your cat is more inclined to hydrate themself.
Stainless steel water systems are fairly common due to bacteria’s difficulty attaching to the less porous surface. However, you should regularly clean your cat’s water and bowl, as bacteria can still proliferate within the liquid.
And while we’re on the topic of bowls…
Cat Food Bowls
Look for whisker-friendly edges when picking out your cat’s fashionable food bowl. A shallow bowl with lower walls reduces the occurrence of whisker fatigue, while an elevated bowl offers a more comfortable position for your cat. It is possible to have both!
Luckily, there are many options online with varying degrees of cost. Recently, Purrre’s “Teeth Party” bowls and plates have grown in popularity and look stunning.
Cat Treats and Plants
Who doesn’t love a little treat now and then?
Cat treats are efficient tools in training… or they’re great to hide medicine in. Whatever the use, they’re incredibly versatile, just be sure not to give too many if you’re monitoring your pet’s weight.
Some plants could earn you a wild kitty. Catnip, silvervine, and some cat-friendly grasses are best provided in limited doses. They may go wild, flipping and rolling all over the place, while others cats mellow out and prefer to rub themselves on the smell.
Watch for excessive ingestion, as this can signal something else going on with them. Check with your vet!
Pro Pet Parent Tip: When teaching your cat their name, you can pair the sound with the shaking of a beloved treat bag. With enough effort, creating an association between the two can mean your cat will know to show up when called.
If I could only teach my cat one thing, it would be recall.
Cat Food, Treats, and Bowls List:
- Food and water bowl
- Food
- Treats
- Cat plants (optional)
Beds and Carriers
They might not sleep in their beds every time, but they’ll certainly appreciate a nice, soft spot to lay. Your cat may prefer a flatbed, a plush one, or a covered bed—you can watch their habits before investing in one of every kind. My cat prefers flat beds in cat trees, for example, but used to prefer a covered dome-shaped bed under a desk when he was a kitten.
You can also get a small bed or blanket for their carrier. The known scent will provide some comfort in the no-doubt chemically smelling but definitely unfamiliar office visits.
You’ll need the carrier for vet appointments and home moves, or other travel, as the cage will keep them contained. Aside from a blanket, you can make your cat comfortable by picking a carrier catered to their size.
It’s as much for their safety as for others around them! And it’s easy to train them to enjoy their crate.
Beds and Carrier List:
- Bed(s)
- Carrier
- (Optional) Blanket for carrier
Litter and Litter Accessories
It’s time for business. Cat business, that is.
Just like you prefer environmental parameters when trying to use the bathroom, so will your cat. They’ll need litter first and foremost, so they can dig around and get comfortable. Common types of litter are made out of clay, wood, silicone, or even corn.
Some cats will be alright with a hooded cat box, or an automatic cleaning system. That said, some cats will be horrified at the mechanic noise and be too afraid to use it. A hooded box can make some feel trapped. An open box might be too personal for others.
You’re sort of at their mercy, in the case of bathroom preferences.
However, if a cat starts going outside of the litter box, it may be time for a vet visit. They’ll rule out problems like a UTI or other health issues. Once confirmed your cat’s okay, you can start swapping out to other options and figure out what they like.
You should regularly clean your cat’s litter of solids so they can continue to use the box, but replacing the litter itself is dependent on what you’re using. Refer to the instructions to be sure. A general rule-of-thumb is that you should have one potty available for each cat in your household, plus one extra as back-up. (So two cats would be three boxes/pans.)
Use a scoop or sifter to clean the litter, and reduce harmful or bad-smelling bacteria by cleaning every element of the box itself. You should use a cat-friendly cleaner, as certain chemical smells may repel your cat. Other essential oils are harmful to animals, so avoid natural cleaners that contain them (wintergreen being a common one).
Essential oil diffusers shouldn’t be used to manage litter box smells. The product can be harmful, if not toxic, for your cat to inhale or lick off of themselves.
You can toss baking soda or other odor neutralizer into your cat’s litter pan to reduce smells.
For those considering eco-friendly litters, get informed and weigh the pros and cons of pine kitty litter.
(Depending on your cat’s litter type, you may want to invest in a mat that catches any spillage from a recently… unburdened… runaway kitty. They get zoomies too.)
Litter List
- Litter
- Litter box/pan
- Scoop
- Cleaning products (baking soda/odor neutralizer, cat-friendly cleaner)
- (Optional) Litter mat
Cat Entertainment and Enrichment
Cat scratcher(s)
If you want to save your furniture… your strongest asset will be scratchers.
Cats need to scratch. It supports claw health by wearing away and removing the older sheaths of material. Your cat may still need assistance reducing length with nail clippers, but it’s an instinct for them to scratch, regardless of on what or why.
I’d argue there are never enough scratching posts. In my bedroom alone, I have three scratching posts available for my cat. He favors one, but once upon a time, I’d only provided two… He thought the cane console under the TV was better than the cat posts far away in the corners.
I quickly addressed the issue with a scratching post set where he’d put his paws. Now, he’s asserted the cactus is his favorite and doesn’t use the others as much. Provide your cat with acceptable outlets, and they’ll use them though it may take some gentle redirection.
A useful skill for pet parents: accepting that anything “annoying” to us is usually their attempt at communication. A sleepy cat won’t want to go far for a good, clawing stretch, so their predilection to scratch at your bed’s hanging blankets may be an indication that you need to introduce a new scratching spot in your room.
Don’t yell; take action for them.
If you favor an item in your household, try putting a scratching post or scratch mat in the way. Guide your feline friend to the appropriate clawing outlet and reward them as they use it.
Providing pet-parent-approved scratching areas allows them to follow their instincts without tearing a hole in your wallet.
Cat tree(s), Tunnels, and Shelves
Cats like to claw almost as much as they like to climb. Depending on the size of your cat, you can pick from single-story cat trees or massive, multi-cat palaces that reach the ceiling.
Kittens are safer on smaller cat trees, such as short one-tiered systems. You don’t want them to climb and be unable to get down due to fear or try to leap from too high and hurt themselves.
Plus, many cat trees have built-in scratching posts. You could address two cat needs in one!
As for the ground, you can provide tunnels for your cat to dart through (bonus if you can place some entertainment pieces in there) or shelves for your cat to further explore.
Tunnels are simply fun for cats, but can similarly be used to direct wanted behavior. My cat likes to hide deeper under the bed than I’m comfortable with (I don’t want him to get used to that as a “safe spot” to hide in case of a fire, for example), so I blocked off half of the bed by wedging a tunnel beneath the frame. This allows him to feel secure, but makes him easy to get to in case of emergency.
On the note of wall installations, cat shelves come in a variety of styles and shapes. There are the standard shelves, to bridges and poles and bowls. It is important to note that cat shelves—while enriching—can be dangerous if incorrectly installed.
They’re also not renter-friendly. A cat tree will suffice in that case!
Toys
There are different categories, such as batting toys like balls or springs, noisy ones that rattle or crinkle, and ones that simulate hunting like cat teaser wands.
Electronic and motorized toys exist are often-battery powered. In these instances, try to remove the toy when you leave the room or are limited in your attention. Active supervision ensures your cat isn’t breaking into the toy and getting at the electronics themselves or the toxic batteries inside. Either could be detrimental to their health.
Toys are required, as they aid in fulfilling a cat’s natural instincts. The more you meet your cat’s needs, the less likely they are to participate in destructive behavior.
Cat Entertainment and Enrichment List:
- Cat scratcher(s)
- Cat tree(s)
- Toys
- (Optional) Tunnels or shelves
Cat Maintenance Tools
Brushes and Nail Clippers
Look at your cat. Or an image of your cat. What do you see?
Long, thick fur? Short fur? No fur? Knowing the grooming standard of your cat will building a cleaning kit that much easier. You’ll need special combs for wilder fur, while short-furred cats can keep themselves clean for longer. A short-toothed brush won’t reliably penetrate thick fur, while a long-toothed comb can poke your thin-coated cat.
Similarly, hairless cats require a different method of bathing, usually at more regular intervals due to the lack of protection from fur. A favorite I’ve noticed is coconut oil, rubbed on their skin until the dirt dislodges. You’ll need to moisturize their skin post-bath as well (coconut oil is a favorite then, too).
Furred cats will need an appropriate shampoo for their baths.
Pro Pet Parent Tip: Lay down a mat or towel in the tub for your cat to stand on. Slipping can make them feel unstable and cause a flailing episode of distress. Water is also loud, so try to run the bath first and then set them in. A cup pouring water over a rag—like one would bathe a baby—can make the sound of pouring quieter and therefore more tolerable to a stressed cat.
For a cat’s nails… yes, even though they use their cat scratches (or whatever else), they’ll need your support. Some cats don’t scratch enough to wear down the length of their claws. Having the tools ready to clip away excess growth can also save your skin pre-bath (if only a little).
Pro Pet Parent Tip: Once your cat is resting happily in your lap, touch their paws. As they grow comfortable with you holding them, press gently to see their claws. If you go a step further, you can touch their muzzles and pull a lip (or both) back.
You’ll want to build your cat’s tolerance to handling, so when it’s time for you to clip their nails—or a groomer—neither of you end up disheveled, covered in shed, and bleeding.
Tolerance also adds the benefit of being able to check on their overall health. Broken or infected nails, bad teeth, or signals like pale gums can be addressed by a vet the sooner you find them. (Cats are notorious for hiding their pain.)
Dental Products
You brush your teeth, your cat… can’t. You’ll have to supplement whatever they may chew on with oral aids like water additives, dental gels, or dental powders.
Of course, it’s recommended to brush your cats teeth daily with a toothbrush and cat-friendly toothpaste as a primary means of reducing plaque and tartar build-up. Then use gels or additives as extra support.
Your cat may not like it, but daily maintenance can limit extractions or other surgeries, as well as keep your cat’s mouth healthy between vet visits for deeper cleans.
Other Medical Aids
Even if your cat isn’t an outside adventurer, your vet may advise you to get medical aids such as flea and tick treatments. These preventative measures are often tied to an area where certain bugs such as mosquitos are more or less prevalent.
For other cats, a hairball medication may be prescribed. Styptic powder can help stop bleeding, as well. It’s good to have an pet first-aid kit on hand for what you need it—because you never know when you will.
This area is primarily where a vet appointment will benefit both you and your cat. Your vet will know of an heartworm, flea and tick, or other preventative medication that’s best for your specific area.
Cat Maintenance Tools List
- Fur-appropriate brush
- Nail clippers
- Dental products (Gel, toothbrush & toothpaste, water additives)
- Medical aids (hairball, flea/tick)
Complete Cat Parent Checklist
- Collar & ID tag (microchip)
- Harness/Leash
- Food and water bowl
- Food
- Treats
- Cat plants (optional)
- Bed(s)
- Carrier
- Cat scratcher(s)
- Cat tree(s)
- Litter
- Litter box/pan
- Scoop
- Cleaning products (baking soda/odor neutralizer, cat-friendly cleaner)
- Appropriate brush
- Nail clippers
- Dental products (Gel, powders, toothbrush & toothpaste, water additives)
- Medical aids (hairball, flea/tick)
Pet Parent Pointers 
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