Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links. This means (at zero cost to you!) I earn an affiliate commission if you click the link and finalize a purchase. I only apply these affiliate links to products I and my pets have personally utilized.
So. You prepare your cat’s food on the counter. You might even feed them on the counter if you have a particularly hungry dog (or a curious baby, nom nom). No harm, no foul, right?
Right…
… Until you’ve got a cat that tears through your bread bag when you’re putting away veggies. Or knocks over glass in the middle of the night. How in the world are you supposed to combat that? Fear not; I’m here to save the day with some pointers. But first, preface:
✨ Cat Parent Tip: Remove yourself from the correction
Before we get into it, let me say this: make sure you aren’t the face of the corrections.
You become the source of the punishment when you want the act of getting on the counter to be undesirable.
A cat isn’t aware of cause-and-affect in the manner we are; they don’t see anything wrong with getting on the counter for food, water, or fulfillment. When they hop up, if you run up to them, shouting, swatting, and spraying them with water… Well, the counter was still fun. It didn’t bite them, but you scared them.
If you provide negative reinforcement, they will simply avoid you instead.
The tips below break down corrective options by sensory input while keeping you out of the equation.
Tip #1: Unexpected Objects = Scary Sights
Some cats get frightened by how things look, especially if it’s a new object.
You might have seen the cats that catapult into the air to escape a stationary cucumber in viral cat videos. You may also have seen the printed cat cut-outs taped to a corner, who gets the ol’ one-two from your usually angelic feline companion.
You’ll want to put something your cat doesn’t like on top of the counter. This usually works better when combined with one of the other tips—encountering a scary-looking stuffed animal that hisses when they get close? They’ll be way more inclined to stay away.
Depending on your cat, though, the mere look of the thing might be enough. You don’t want to terrify your cat, of course. Just prove the counter isn’t the adventure it seems.
Tip #2: Loud, Disruptive Sounds Startle
Speaking of hissing—sudden and loud sounds alarm cats.
Technically, they adapted conversational vocals (meows) for us. Feral cats tend not to reach out to one another for discussion unless dealing with a territorial dispute. Hissing, yowling, growling, and other abruptly boisterous vocalizations usually spell bad news for that reason.
A machine that makes a similar noise, such as a cat-specific motion-detection device on the busiest section of counter space, can reinforce your boundaries. These machines may hiss, let out bursts of air, or buzz to correct your cat in your stead—this ties back to that cat parent tip.
Not only do these alarms operate solely based on your cat’s movements, but they trigger when you’re asleep or not around. As far as your cat’s concerned, you have nothing to do with the monster on the counter.
This provides additional feedback for your cat. The counter is scarier, now, with the loud machine patrolling its surface… and all you had to do was install it.
Tip #3: Cat Hate Certain Smells
Like dogs, cats use their noses extensively. If you see them rubbing their cheeks on corners, or worse, spraying, they’re leaving their scent there for others. They also use it to hunt prey—needless to say, their olfactory receptors are finely tuned for picking up scents.
If you know a smell your cat despises, you can place an object with it near the edge of the counter. Many cat parents report citrus smells as being particularly revolting to the cat species, likely due to how strong it is.
However, citrus essential oil is toxic to cats. So are peppermint, wintergreen, cinnamon, and pine. Ideally, you should find something else.
Some cats hate the smell of alcohol (understandably), though you need to make sure they aren’t ingesting it or getting it on themselves.
Contain a particularly disliked scent to a dampened paper towel in a plastic container with holes poked into it. I recommend taping down the container as a safety precaution so your cat doesn’t knock it over and spill it.
Tip #4: Cats are Particular About Their Paws
Sticky, oily, poky—cats have preferences like us, including a distaste for discomfort.
Cat repellent mats help deter feline visitors through the use of tactile spikes or small, harmless shocks. The intent isn’t to harm but to startle, so the cat leaves the surface and eventually avoids it.
There’s also the option of double-sided tape. You can lay down a strip or two on your countertop. When your cat leaps up, they’ll find their precious paw pads on a tacky surface and rush to get away from it. The tape won’t hold them in place, but it can create a gross sensory experience your cat wants to avoid.
Remember that all cats have preferences. While some may avidly steer clear of anti-cat spikes or sticky tape, others won’t care. You’ll have to test around to find what works for you.
Tip #5: Use rooms to your advantage
If you’re in a large enough place and can put your cat in another room for the night… It may be safer to do so.
Putting them in another room will keep them from getting onto the counters and causing any harm to themselves. Glass and household toxins can be found in abundance in the kitchen—if you can’t train the habit out of your cat, consider introducing a new one: bedtime lockdown.
Of course, you shouldn’t keep your cat locked away twenty-four hours a day (or even six, cats are surprisingly social!), but don’t think it cruel to put them in a room overnight when you’d be sleeping anyway. If they have food, water, and a source of entertainment, they’ll be okay.
Just make sure they’ve got a cat tree to claw at and climb, too. You want all of their needs to be met within one space.
Tip #6: Don’t Give Food While They’re On the Counter
My cat doesn’t jump on counters anymore, even when I tap at them to ask him to. I have to pick him up now, which may be a mobility concern when training them using my method. Keep that in mind. If you can bend down and pick up your cat, this method may work for you.
(NOTE: This only works if you aren’t free-feeding your cat.)
Bean took one month to train. I would put his bowl and an unopened food container on the counter, and, of course, he would jump up. When he did, I would put him on the floor.
He’d try a few times, but eventually, he learned I wanted him on the floor. Once he learned the concept of staying down, I started opening the container. The sound of an opening can would encourage him to jump—I would then grab the plate and the food and turn away. Putting some distance between us, I made sure he could still see me and smell me holding his dinner.
Then, it was a waiting game. After Bean jumped to the floor to approach me, I’d return to the counter. I didn’t want to make eye contact, as that would encourage him to meow demands—this may not be the same for your cat.
I’d continue the walking-away process until he stopped jumping onto the counter. This wasn’t all in one night—not at all—but he learned that I was always going to feed him at 5 PM on the dot, and he didn’t need to be on the counter to intercept me.
Stop here to avoid the issue of having to pick them up before feeding them. (But I take the opportunity to give Bean kisses!) If you want a self-restraining kitty, take the training a step further.
Bean learned the release cue of a tap on the counter, but thumps of the can or my hips hitting the cabinets would trigger this cue. To train that out, I’d either noisily move things around or step away and hover my hand above the countertop.
Inevitably, he’d jump, and then I’d put him to the floor again.
I will note these sessions only took max five minutes—so he certainly wasn’t left wondering if he would get dinner that night. Set your cat up for success, and immediately reward them early in training before adding additional steps and time. Don’t expect perfection on the first day or the first week. It’ll take time and effort.
The lesson is this: if they’re leaping up to get something… move that something.
Most Important: Offer Alternatives and Don’t Give Up
Your cat will test you, bless their little hearts. They can’t help it. They’re curious and want to explore, to drink fresh water, to smell—wouldn’t you?
For many cats, the faucet is a source of delicious, moving water. The countertops have off-limit treats or scraps of your food. Putting away or relocating temptations will give them fewer reasons to check out the kitchen.
They also might simply want the height! Cats naturally love to explore the vertical plane. If your cat insists on getting on the counters, give them alternatives. This may be cat shelves on your walls or the more rent-friendly cat trees and cat towers. They don’t have to be ugly—I got this one for Bean over a year ago!—and your cat will appreciate the extra activities.
Listen, I understand the need for some sanctuary in the kitchen. You’ll have to try different methods until you get the desired behavior, and then it’s reward, reward, reward. If they like treats, use treats. If they have a favorite toy, reward them with playtime. And so on!
Go forth, and good luck.
Pet Parent Pointers 
Leave a comment